One of my more popular patterns is the Sleeveless Leotard Pattern (Pattern 1322), extremely useful for anyone who wants to a sleek and aesthetic suit to be a superhero in! Whether you're kicking butt, or dancing gracefully, this pattern is the perfect look for various active costumes. And it's not only useful for just cosplay, so if you have other ideas, I would love to see what projects you end up making with it!
Purchase the Sleeveless Leotard Pattern Here:
Size Extra Small, Short Torso
Size Small, Short Torso
With most of my sewing patterns, I like to do video tutorials, because it is much easier for me to show you while I'm explaining my process, but for those that prefer written instructions, I'll be offering them on my site here as blog posts as a supplement to the videos. Here is the link to the video if you'd like to use both forms of tutorial together:
If there's any step you don't understand or need help on, let me know and I'll be happy to assist explaining anything here in more depth! I know I'm not the best at explaining things in words, but I try my best nonetheless! Email me at email@example.com if you would like additional assistance, and I'll get back to you as soon as I'm able to.
After downloading and printing out your patterns, you'll have to cut your pattern pieces out. Because some of the leotard pieces are too big to fit on home printing paper, I have arranged them with matching circles for your convenience.
Once you have assembled your patterns by taping them together, you'll begin cutting your fabric on the fold, and once that's all done, you'll be ready to move to the sewing machines! Remember, white fabric can often lack opacity, so you may want to line your suit if you're using white fabrics, or double up on the fabric. I usually self-line my magical girl leotards, meaning, I use the same fabric on the outside as the inside. This makes for a nice bright white suit that shines as bright as the moon herself!
Connecting Your Lining to Your Face Pieces
After cutting all pieces out in the face fabric and lining fabric, match each piece of lining to its face (a total of 8 pieces, matching up to make 4 pairs) and baste all individual lining pieces together with the corresponding face fabric. Stitch at 5mm on edges, 1/8" away from edges.
The baste stitch will keep things together as you sew, it is not meant to be seen in the finished garment. You may find that some stretch fabrics are a bit slippery to work with and shift while you sew them, so my sewing teachers taught me that if I start from the center of a garment, like the center of the neckline, and then work my way outwards, I can keep better control of the pieces. Whatever works best for you, just make sure you can hold it steady! If you're having too much trouble with this, you can also hand baste for this step.
Your basted pieces, as viewed from the right side (the face), and the wrong side (the lining):
Sewing the Underbust Seam
For every step, you'll want to sew right sides together. To begin, I like to start with the underbust seam. Sew underbust lines on the top front + top bottom and the back top + back bottom panels. You may find that sewing the underbust seam on the front panels to be somewhat challenging because of the point and curves. Try to manipulate your fabric as you're sewing to be as straight as possible when working it through the machine. "Trick" the machine into sewing a straight line, in a sense! You can also start at the center front point and work your way to the edge, and repeat for the other half of the seam, if that helps.